Bubble Wrap



This was the most infamous project in CATS if not Colorado. This was a series of holds that Chris Danielson put up a few years ago hoping that it would be quite a testpiece however I do not think anyone predicted that it would be unsent for as long as it was. Just off the top of my head I know Daniel Woods, Carlo Traversi, Paul Robinson, Seth Allred, Kyle Owen, Garret Gregor, Alex Puccio, and Andre DeFelice have all tried it. Carlo has said he has spent at least 15 days on the problem, and coming off of his recent 5 day ascent of the Game this holds some meaning.


A fantastic testpeice full of power, contact strength and tension.

Finally put to rest January 29th 2013 by Daniel Woods.

Footage here: https://vimeo.com/58526931

Brown Disc 2.0



The second, shorter, more intense climb I recently set revolving around a thin disc like E-Grips Ian's Tribal crimp. If you want something short and powerful and do not hate crimps this would be the climb to try. I find the climb to be very straightforward yet actually interesting and unique. I think this is mostly due to the actual nature of the line and the direction in which it climbs. Very much a typical boulder problem in design; a few somewhat difficult moves to a very difficult crux, to a desperate finish move. Video is here.

Sustained Watermelon



What I hope will become a newer classic. When I sent this boulder, for me personally, it was perfectly sustained with a crux. Others have mentioned that the crux is actually very likely the first move. Regardless I am quite happy with this climb, there is a good variety of movement, power and controlled climbing, with the possibility of falling on any number of moves. But once again if you fall on the first move repeatedly do not be discouraged. Here is the video where you can hopefully observe the nature of the climb.

High Step



This is an excellent climb if you enjoy crimps, lockoffs and can bring your foot high. The climbing is not terribly dynamic as long as you can commit to a throw to the lip off a slopey edge. This climb is relatively sustained; there are very few truely easy moves. The only easy moves on the entire climb is probably the first move and the third. The cruxes are probably the high step and getting out of it, and then shortly afterwards a very long lockoff to a very slopey edge. But I am happy to say that it is not very height dependant as it has seen ascents from 5'3" to 5'9".


Here is the video.

The Barndoor Boulder






A standard V9 with a tendancy towards edges but certainly not something I would call crimpy. A line mostly inspired by the desire to link as many of my new ETCH Watermelon holds as possible. Watermelon because they are from different sets but came in the same color. This would be suggested to someone wanting to break into a solid V9 without a very paticular style, not overly crimpy, powerful or tension based. It is some suspense moves, a hard barndoor move and then a touch of spice to the top. You do a few nice intro moves with a touch of power and tension, then you swing your feet far left onto a good jib and execute a difficult barndoor move to a flat red 2tex edge. From there you stand to the Teknik Creamsicle, pull into a bad undercling pinch then grab a flat edge and jump to the top.


Here is the video.