Keen's 4th ascent, New problems up

Rob reports that Phil Schaal recently made the 4th ascent of the center wall Keen. Given that he has mostly climbed out the Park, I hope Phil comes in more! On a related not I have not started trying it yet, but I just finished setting the extension to Keen, so it will go to the top of the wall soon, for those that want to. I also spent some time during the day so that the lighting would be better getting footage of an amazing taped testpiece I put up a few months ago; Petzl. I think I got about as good of footage as I can get out of my digital point-and-shoot, so the problem and video is now up! Along with two very contrasting V11s and a good addition to the sparse V6-7 section. I have also been scrounging across the unclimbed back pit wall and have added a few more holds to the main wall. Also my friend Chris Danielson should be bringing in some amazing new E-Grips holds in the coming weeks, so come in and check it out!

Ryan's V7


A very good less sandbagged V7 my friend Ryan Young set recently with a new ETCH pinch we got more recently than I have a picture of. Consisting mostly of a little power and a decent amount of tension, I did not think this was too cruxy of a climb, but people say the second move is the crux. Here is the video: http://vimeo.com/6548936 where my feet cut on the second move where they did not when I first did this problem, and most definitely should not. But oh well. Here also is a picture of the top, 2nd move on (the filled in circle is where there is now an amazing ETCH pinch). You start on the large Hudz plate right before the floor goes down hill with the red spike jib, reach out to a good white E-Grips Comfy crimp, handfoot, and come into the green pinch pictured.

The Font-Egg Dyno

Another shameless power problem with the Egg. However going from the ETCH Font Pinch to the Egg was a move that had to be done, so this problem had to happen. Since I knew I was just making another power problem with Egg I decided to not half-ass it and just make a straight line line with as big of moves as I could manage.
And this is was the resulthttp://vimeo.com/6548691
As you may notice I did throw in one small hold; the last crimper on Keen. So that 6'3" 200lb people do not get too psyched. Along with a description this problem should be easy enough to figure out. Start Red Izze double jug with orange Bubble Wrap foot right above the kickboard, up to purple ETCH edge, Keen, on the painting of the climber on the wall the incut crimp on top of the painting's chalk bag, ETCH font pinch, Egg, top.

The Sustained Problem

Not an endurance climb, but something I think that does definitely does not get it's grade from
one move. One of the strengths of this climb I think are the non standard grips. After the first two crimpers there are two really nice little pinch crimps, a cool loaf, and a Teknik Tron dual edge which you pinch. That and it is a little different from what I normally set, more static moves, I set a whole climb with only one jump move! Basically a good climb to do if you are getting tired of all my power climbs and heinous climbs.
Here is the video:http://vimeo.com/6548506 and a couple pictures

Petzl

A serious steep crimping testpiece on a great line of amazing holds. One of my absolute favorites. The original goal of this problem was to make a better set, easier, more fun version of Organic. In terms of a full length, taped steep crimp testpiece. It worked out quite well except for the easier part. I think I did set this a little better than Organic, the moves are more interesting and the holds are much cooler. It was also especially good for myself because I found it to be a very sustained problem, I somehow came out of the finish jug around 6 times from the bottom. Although apparently I was wrong. The 4th move(getting out of the Orange ETCH undercling) is, according to Paul, much harder than anything on Organic, to the extent that this is the only problem I know of that took Daniel more than one day. So the grading on this is a bit tricky but I do not think it warrants V14.
Here is the video: http://vimeo.com/6548279 I know this footage is not perfect but it is quite hard to film the steep wall well and keep the feet in frame at all times. It is taped so do not think any pictures are necessary.

FA: James O'Connor
Other Ascents: Daniel Woods, Paul Robinson

New Holds

A few pieces of news. First CATS will not be open tomorrow(Monday the 7th) for Labor day. My friend Gabor has just returned from Europe and brought a handful of interesting Euro holds which are now up, look for a few new incuts on the lower section of steep, new feet spread around, new sloper on the left side of the main wall, a cool plate and black edgepinch on the lower main wall, yellow crimper on the main wall, and a few other randoms spread around. Thanks for the holds Gabor! Although it is currently empty I have added a "Blog" section to the site for random musings and guest posts. When I get something to put in there I will probably post something here in the news section. I have also put up Campus Number 3 and 4 up on the site with video, which means I now how have to try to repeat Campus Number 5. Any opinions on whether the footage should be uncut or have some hold close ups?

Campus Number 4

Strangely the first simple and the first crimpy campus problem made. Here is the video http://vimeo.com/6438780 although it is definitely a problem that is harder than it looks I have trouble with the grade on this one. It did not feel that bad to me, I did not feel it was a step up at the time, but a few things suggest otherwise. People have said that it would be V10 with open feet, it has been tried open feet without success, it has been tried by the very strong and still has zero repeats. . .
But if someone were to come along and piss it and tell me it is no harder than Campus Number 1 I would just think "Dang! I knew it!" and probably agree. I will compromise, guess and just throw the V12 grade on it. If you are really psyched on your fingers and pulling ability have at it!
Two finger bucket, right hand blue jib, red incut jib, top.

FA: James O'Connor

Campus Number 3

The intense, most varied, longest of the campus problems. The bottom couple moves were set by my friend Jamie which inspired me to make the rest of the line. The top has been changed from the original because a hold got moved, I think Carlo and Paul repeated the original, cannot remember. Here is the video http://vimeo.com/6433563 I am aware that there is some dabbing of the feet on the wall near the end but is essentially impossible to campus on underclings without your lower body wanting to go in, so oh well. Perhaps is pushing what can be called V12 but I have a hard time grading these things.

FA: James O'Connor
Other Ascents: (since change, none)

La Sportiva (Girl 8)

This is a taped crimp ladder up the center of the main wall. I originally set this problem quite awhile back for my friend Hanna so she could have a very girly V8 to work on(I sandbagged a little too hard maybe). So originally this problem was called the Girl 8, and it became a bit of a small holds testpiece, although I still do not think this would be V10 outside. Nothing but small moves on small holds, very little besides fingers is required. Here is the video:http://vimeo.com/6269588 that plus the tape should be plenty. The problem can also be campused from start to finish at around V12.
First Female Ascent Angie Payne