Winter Holiday

Sorry again the site is going completely stale, but on the other hand no one seems to care. I have been very very busy with school work and as of late have not even been into CATS as much I would like. I bought two more sets of holds and Danielson threw in some extras, so the walls are just getting better and better, be sure to check out the steep. I suppose people have realised that my beta for Green Horny Toad is not the way and it has seen two more repeats to Andre and Paul. Besides the massive numbers of new holds not too much news as of now. I will be heading down to Hueco soon. Hope everyone enjoys their winter break.

Thanksgiving and New Holds

Sorry that there has not been a lot of activity on the site recently. I have been putting a little more time into school. Also things have been a bit dry on the video side of things, but good news is that my friend Gabor is doing a video piece on training in Boulder, similar to the Patxi section of Progression that will include a lot of amazing HD CATS footage including UNCUT footage of Campus number 5. More good news is that I with some help from Chris Danielson got 30 new E-Grips holds that are absolutely amazing! The steep is the most transformed, but lots of new holds around in general as some other holds have been moved around, such as the Death Star in a more usable spot and I liberated a nice Lunar Flat out of the steep. Seeing how much of a difference these holds made actually just makes me want more, so there will definitely be some new ones for Christmas as well. A difficulty this brings up is that my photographs for CATS are outdated now as the walls are a bit different. I will have to decide whether to take more pictures, or just rely on video plus me being there to show problems. What do you think? Do the guide pictures help at all or should I abandon them? Remember as always if you see me in there to just ask for problems.
I am leaving for Maryland tomorrow to go climbing at my old stomping ground of Earth Treks, CATS may be closed some of these days, sorry I do not remember the details, but just call in. When I return I will probably write another blog post regarding ET vs. CATS and the changes they created in my climbing.
Happy Thanksgiving!

Hard Ascents

Gabor Szekely and Paul Robinson have made a couple hard ascents this last week with Paul getting the second ascent of the crimp testpiece Keen Extension, and Gabor repeating Green Horny Toad for it's third ascent, after maybe a year drought of no ascents of the problem. CATS also recently gained an amazing new unreleased sloper on the lower section of the wall, that makes for countless new lines. Not too much else right now, I will try to get some more videos up this Friday unless I go to Joe's Valley.

Keen Extension

I finished up my 3rd project of the season with the first ascent of the extension to the Clear Blue Skies simulator Keen. Keen extension adds maybe a CATS V11 ontop of Keen, very very small holds and a big lock-off. Keen Extension will still get V13, as Keen is pretty low in the grade, the extension is high in the grade. In comparison to Clear Blue Skies, Keen Extension is a problem harder than CBS into a problem as hard as CBS. This is probably the crimpiest climb I have done in CATS based on the ammount of finger death I felt when I was done with it. I will add it into the guide when I have video of the send and I also do not have a good picture because it uses new holds I put up just for this climb. Still is looking for a second ascent!

In site news, I have added a steep V9 and V12 and a super classic campus problem.

The Doable Climb


A very good powerful and tensiony pinch climb out of the steep on fantastic pinches. I was trying to make climbs in the steep and was having trouble making climbs that could actually be done. But then I saw this amazing line which actually worked out to be V9, so I named it the Doable climb because unlike most stuff I was trying that day, it was actually doable. A really amazingly obvious line of pinches, strange I had not seen it before, here is the video: http://vimeo.com/7118084 for the finish you are supposed to do a fun little come in to the Bubble Wrap Tufa Pinch, and then match, slipped in the video, oh well. I will give one picture of the start to be clear but then it is pretty easy to follow from orange E-Grips mini jug, to blue Water Tufa, to pink Water Tufa, to Bubble Wrap Tufa Pinch, into Epic Taped ETCH pinch to the black ringer jug far out right.

The Small Holds Climb

Another steep crimping testpiece, most of the difficulty of this climb is due to the size of the holds. The movement between them though is also not trivial or just tick tacking up small holds, a very hard jump in the bottom to a very small hold to a pretty long cross through off meager feet near the end. Here is the video: http://vimeo.com/7118495 I actually tweak my finger a little bit in the video. The second move, I grab a crimp and start to close it, and if you watch closely it snaps closed strangely, which hurts my pinky and ring finger, strange. Here are pictures as though as it is hard to see exactly how the climb goes just by video. The pictures do not show the start; Start Organic/Petzl with a small blue jib down and left then go to first crimp shown etc.


First Ascent: James O'Connor

Other Ascents: Daniel Woods, Paul Robinson

Sloper Campus

Slightly separate from Campus Numbers 1-5, this climbs up the main wall. The line was visualized by Jamie Emerson shortly after we got a bunch of cool new holds including two sick Teknik holds. Maybe the most tension oriented campus problem, the moves are only difficult because of the holds, not too much power involved. I actually flashed the line this summer which is why I feel I cannot call it V12, so far it has seen two other ascents but no flashes. Big hands could be a serious advantage if it allows you to pinch the holds, therefore eliminating the need for tension. Here is the video: http://vimeo.com/7050168 Should be a very obvious line with the video's help. 5.10 Taped Circle sloper, Big Blue, yellow teknik, purple Teknik edge, Egg, Jug. Quiet a fun testpiece.

First Blog post, Epic video, Organic.

Not too much news. I now have video of Paul sending Epic up, and I have added the classic steep testpiece Organic into the V13 section, along with footage and my first actual blog style post in the Blog section of the site. Sorry I did not get video of left wall Keen up, but I have been fighting sickness. One thing of note is that there has been a strangely epic move linking all the lower Bubble Wrap holds, with a very awkward heel hook that had only been done by the heel hook master Alex Puccio. This move had been unrepeated for maybe a year until this Thursday when Andre De Felice stuck the move for its second ascent. The problem remains unclimbed.

Organic

This last week I sent what has probably been my longest indoor project. And it reveals one of the most unique aspects of CATS which I think many have a hard time as seeing as being a positive feature, but I think is perfect for training and the way climbing in CATS works.

I set Organic only a few months after moving out to Colorado. I was psyched to set something hard, really hard, in the steep that I could work for years and that would make me stronger. When I was finished setting I was sure I had just set a V15 and there were numerous moves I simply could not do, the 4th move, the 6th move, the 8th move and the last move. As one of my favorite things in climbing is hard moves, right after I set it I worked it for a few weeks with Seth Allred, mainly trying the 6th move, off of the wood and to the pinch. We would hit the pinch and just swing off the climb. Eventually we learned how to hold a crazy circular swing for the move, and I did the other moves in a very low percentage manner. The especially frustrating one was the quite easy 4th move, everyone except me could easily do that move, it was just some non-square tension sort of move I really did not understand. Now that the moves had gone, and linking was still way out of my league, I gave the climb a rest for awhile. At some point or another Daniel returned from somewhere amazing and on his flash burn stuck the pinch with his feet staying. I was pretty mind blown, I had not even considered having your feet not cut. In another half an hour Daniel had the first ascent, and I realized the climb was probably not 8C and that I was very weak. At this point I think it is Spring 09, and I tried the pinch move again after a few months not trying. The holds feel good, I feel in ok shape, but for some reason I come off the problem completely differently and cannot repeat the move. Summer temps are setting in and I give the climb a rest again. Now that school is over and alpine season is prime, I spend 5 days a week in CATS and just climb climb climb. Late summer, the temps are not prime yet but I am curious and pull back onto Organic. All the moves feel easy, you just grab the pinch and tighten up, and somehow the mysterious bottom hard move is inconsequential, as it should be. After another month or so, as soon as the temps are out of the upper 70s low 80s, I hop on and narrowly fall on the second crux from the bottom and am soon falling post crux. This last Monday, I warmed up very briefly and pulled on. Every move just went perfectly, hitting all the holds perfectly with a new level of control. After 8 hard moves out of a 70degree(?) overhang I come to the last hold. This hold is complete shit, it would literally be a very very miserable crimp on a face that no one would use, even in CATS it would be one of the absolute worst holds on the main wall. You have to pinch it because if you crimped it you would just dry fire off because there is nothing to crimp on. None the less I simply pulled up to it, and with surprising lack of desperation stuck the flat brick Teknik finish hold. For me this was the end of an era. A little over a year ago I had set this climb thinking years of work and V15. Now it is done.

I am guessing that this is probably what it is like to send a project outside. A sign of progression, the end of a chapter, the next step.

This is something that is unique to CATS as far as gyms go, this cannot happen at the Spot or Movement. The purpose of this post is not to rag on other gyms, there is definitely an appeal to new set problems every few weeks or whatever. But CATS is about getting stronger, training, becoming a better climber. Being able to have actual hard projects is great way of measuring this progression and a great reward when you do get stronger. It is a great feeling when things are out of your league completely and then before you know it, the moves just aren't that hard anymore.

So I encourage you all to have projects and be dedicated. You won't get stronger doing climbs that are not hard for you.

Organic

An older taped steep crimp testpiece. This was I think the first or second climb I taped in CATS along with the Bear Problem. Much less powerful than the more recent Petzl, but of a similar difficulty I would say. Organic is much more tension and staying on the wall through crimp strength than much else. Even the moves that feel powerful are not all that large, they are just off of small holds and bad feet. Here is the video: http://vimeo.com/6991137
The video does not really do many of the holds justice, the most miserable is the very last hold before the finish, it is literally smaller than the majority of foot holds at the Spot, but somehow you can move off of it.

First Ascent: Daniel Woods
Other Ascents: Paul Robinson, James O'Connor

The Season is Beginning

First, sorry for the lack of updates recently. The winter CATS season is beginning! In the last month or so CATS temps have dropped around 15 degrees and grease levels are decreasing! I personally think this means the time for crimping is at hand, and have already dispatched two of my winter projects, left wall Keen and Organic in the steep. I will hopefully get video's of both of these up this weekend. The time of year also means CATS is starting to get a little more traffic. We do not have a ton of space, so please try to be considerate and tuck your things away as neatly as possible, and do not put all your stuff on the chairs, they are for people, not for your excess clothing.

In climbing news Paul has started to come in once a week or so and is dispatching some of my unrepeated problems, and putting away a few of my projects. Gabor has just returned and is remembering how much better CATS is than anything else and had some impressive V11 flashes last night. I am also very psyched for my friend Matt who just moved here from California, and is systematically putting away all the problems I show him. I appreciate this type of climbing and find it is much more productive than the ADD, no focus, stop-trying-things-if-they-are-hard approach.

Not a lot of new problems added to the site recently, sorry again, I am not running low, but am having trouble filming. The newish ones that I have added though are a good grade range including a V4, V8, and V12 campus. I will try to get some more up this week. But as always if you need or want new problems, just come in and ask!

La Sportiva Campus

If you want to get stronger on crimps I would have to say that this is THE thing to climb on. And no I have not said that about any other problem. This is how to get finger strength. As a warning La Sportiva with feet should be a warm-up and you probably should have flashed it for this to be an option, but of course do what you want. This is where grading gets very tricky for me. Maybe not quite flash but I did this problem first try or so, and for me it is probably as difficult as CATS V10. However I am not sure who would do this problem besides those who have climbed V14 outside. . . .
But I could also be miserably wrong.
But then again maybe I am not, as there are climbers who have done V12 who have difficulty doing La Sportiva WITH feet.
How hard is this? I have no idea. So it gets V12.
Here is the video: http://vimeo.com/6822329

First Ascent: James O'Connor

The New Warm-Up





I decided it would be good to have a cool warm up problem. Something that was actually like a boulder problem and less just a ladder of crimps or jugs, something I would make up for myself if I was a bit weaker. I think it actually turned out pretty good, maybe has reachy feet for short people, but they have figured out a different sequence. Also no complaining about the 5th move just push with your foot and get to the hold, it's not that bad. But varied movement on amazing holds. Highly recommended. Here is the video: http://vimeo.com/6820816 And a couple pictures.

Danielson's Return


A very good unique bloc set by professional route setter Chris Danielson. Chris was out of climbing consistently for awhile but now has finally started coming into CATS regularly again. This was the first real boulder problem he made up for himself since his return. Interesting climbing on small slopers leads to a bump crux near the end. Here is the video: http://vimeo.com/6820750 and a picture

Keen's 4th ascent, New problems up

Rob reports that Phil Schaal recently made the 4th ascent of the center wall Keen. Given that he has mostly climbed out the Park, I hope Phil comes in more! On a related not I have not started trying it yet, but I just finished setting the extension to Keen, so it will go to the top of the wall soon, for those that want to. I also spent some time during the day so that the lighting would be better getting footage of an amazing taped testpiece I put up a few months ago; Petzl. I think I got about as good of footage as I can get out of my digital point-and-shoot, so the problem and video is now up! Along with two very contrasting V11s and a good addition to the sparse V6-7 section. I have also been scrounging across the unclimbed back pit wall and have added a few more holds to the main wall. Also my friend Chris Danielson should be bringing in some amazing new E-Grips holds in the coming weeks, so come in and check it out!

Ryan's V7


A very good less sandbagged V7 my friend Ryan Young set recently with a new ETCH pinch we got more recently than I have a picture of. Consisting mostly of a little power and a decent amount of tension, I did not think this was too cruxy of a climb, but people say the second move is the crux. Here is the video: http://vimeo.com/6548936 where my feet cut on the second move where they did not when I first did this problem, and most definitely should not. But oh well. Here also is a picture of the top, 2nd move on (the filled in circle is where there is now an amazing ETCH pinch). You start on the large Hudz plate right before the floor goes down hill with the red spike jib, reach out to a good white E-Grips Comfy crimp, handfoot, and come into the green pinch pictured.

The Font-Egg Dyno

Another shameless power problem with the Egg. However going from the ETCH Font Pinch to the Egg was a move that had to be done, so this problem had to happen. Since I knew I was just making another power problem with Egg I decided to not half-ass it and just make a straight line line with as big of moves as I could manage.
And this is was the resulthttp://vimeo.com/6548691
As you may notice I did throw in one small hold; the last crimper on Keen. So that 6'3" 200lb people do not get too psyched. Along with a description this problem should be easy enough to figure out. Start Red Izze double jug with orange Bubble Wrap foot right above the kickboard, up to purple ETCH edge, Keen, on the painting of the climber on the wall the incut crimp on top of the painting's chalk bag, ETCH font pinch, Egg, top.

The Sustained Problem

Not an endurance climb, but something I think that does definitely does not get it's grade from
one move. One of the strengths of this climb I think are the non standard grips. After the first two crimpers there are two really nice little pinch crimps, a cool loaf, and a Teknik Tron dual edge which you pinch. That and it is a little different from what I normally set, more static moves, I set a whole climb with only one jump move! Basically a good climb to do if you are getting tired of all my power climbs and heinous climbs.
Here is the video:http://vimeo.com/6548506 and a couple pictures

Petzl

A serious steep crimping testpiece on a great line of amazing holds. One of my absolute favorites. The original goal of this problem was to make a better set, easier, more fun version of Organic. In terms of a full length, taped steep crimp testpiece. It worked out quite well except for the easier part. I think I did set this a little better than Organic, the moves are more interesting and the holds are much cooler. It was also especially good for myself because I found it to be a very sustained problem, I somehow came out of the finish jug around 6 times from the bottom. Although apparently I was wrong. The 4th move(getting out of the Orange ETCH undercling) is, according to Paul, much harder than anything on Organic, to the extent that this is the only problem I know of that took Daniel more than one day. So the grading on this is a bit tricky but I do not think it warrants V14.
Here is the video: http://vimeo.com/6548279 I know this footage is not perfect but it is quite hard to film the steep wall well and keep the feet in frame at all times. It is taped so do not think any pictures are necessary.

FA: James O'Connor
Other Ascents: Daniel Woods, Paul Robinson

New Holds

A few pieces of news. First CATS will not be open tomorrow(Monday the 7th) for Labor day. My friend Gabor has just returned from Europe and brought a handful of interesting Euro holds which are now up, look for a few new incuts on the lower section of steep, new feet spread around, new sloper on the left side of the main wall, a cool plate and black edgepinch on the lower main wall, yellow crimper on the main wall, and a few other randoms spread around. Thanks for the holds Gabor! Although it is currently empty I have added a "Blog" section to the site for random musings and guest posts. When I get something to put in there I will probably post something here in the news section. I have also put up Campus Number 3 and 4 up on the site with video, which means I now how have to try to repeat Campus Number 5. Any opinions on whether the footage should be uncut or have some hold close ups?

Campus Number 4

Strangely the first simple and the first crimpy campus problem made. Here is the video http://vimeo.com/6438780 although it is definitely a problem that is harder than it looks I have trouble with the grade on this one. It did not feel that bad to me, I did not feel it was a step up at the time, but a few things suggest otherwise. People have said that it would be V10 with open feet, it has been tried open feet without success, it has been tried by the very strong and still has zero repeats. . .
But if someone were to come along and piss it and tell me it is no harder than Campus Number 1 I would just think "Dang! I knew it!" and probably agree. I will compromise, guess and just throw the V12 grade on it. If you are really psyched on your fingers and pulling ability have at it!
Two finger bucket, right hand blue jib, red incut jib, top.

FA: James O'Connor

Campus Number 3

The intense, most varied, longest of the campus problems. The bottom couple moves were set by my friend Jamie which inspired me to make the rest of the line. The top has been changed from the original because a hold got moved, I think Carlo and Paul repeated the original, cannot remember. Here is the video http://vimeo.com/6433563 I am aware that there is some dabbing of the feet on the wall near the end but is essentially impossible to campus on underclings without your lower body wanting to go in, so oh well. Perhaps is pushing what can be called V12 but I have a hard time grading these things.

FA: James O'Connor
Other Ascents: (since change, none)

La Sportiva (Girl 8)

This is a taped crimp ladder up the center of the main wall. I originally set this problem quite awhile back for my friend Hanna so she could have a very girly V8 to work on(I sandbagged a little too hard maybe). So originally this problem was called the Girl 8, and it became a bit of a small holds testpiece, although I still do not think this would be V10 outside. Nothing but small moves on small holds, very little besides fingers is required. Here is the video:http://vimeo.com/6269588 that plus the tape should be plenty. The problem can also be campused from start to finish at around V12.
First Female Ascent Angie Payne

The Ultimate Bloc

The hardest thing in CATS. I made this problem in a desperate attempt to try to set something that Daniel would not be able to do in a day. I failed, for a third time. On his flash attempt he got through 9 of the 11 moves. It was the most impressive thing I have ever seen in climbing. He sent in about another hour. When I originally set the problem the 6th move through the 10th were all the crux and I could only do the first hard move. I still have not done the 7th move. I believe this is perhaps one of the hardest climbs in the country, potentially behind Terremer. If you do not think it can be this hard because Daniel did it in a day then you clearly just do not understand Daniel on straightforward moves on a 70 degree overhang.

The problem starts with a little 5 move V8 or V9 set up problem, then a V10 move, then a V12 move, then a V11 move, to a V9 move to a V10 move to a V6 move. This is of course my feeling and I have not done the problem, but it should give a basic idea. Here are pictures, I do not think I will be getting video of this one. . .

Right V10

The second of two somewhat mundane V10s I found and flashed in a day, this one has one slightly sharp hold and a cool big move to the Boss. I actually like this climb a lot, a few nice little intro crimp moves, a hard crux and then a hard finish toss to a jug lip, actually has zero repeats....
Here is the video http://vimeo.com/6334466 which should work well enough with a description.
Start on a massive right facing jug just below and left of the "Cool Wall" hold. Foot is on a incut chip out right between a Hudz hold and a left facing jug, small cross over to a white incut Comfy Crimp, reach out right to a thin flat Epic taped hold, cross into a two screw red sidepull, Boss, Red Hornytoad taped bubble wrap, Green Hornytoad taped finish.

Left V10

The first of two somewhat mundane V10s I came up with and flashed in a day, it climbs very nicely though and if you want to crimp but have bad skin or are not psyched on even a little pain this is the climb to do. Or if you like shoulders, crimps and are looking for your first CATS V10. The video http://vimeo.com/6333822 should make it pretty clear, but I will describe some as well; you start on the "Cool Wall" plate foot on a flat/slopey red jib directly below and above the mini-roof and reach right to a crimp right over the angle transition between a right facing jug and a right facing flat edge, jump to the incut Green Hornytoad crimp and from there the video makes it obvious.

The Original Pinch Problem


A very old school testpiece for CATS V8 pinching. The second move is an interesting tension move and generally considered the crux, but it is relatively sustained and you can definitely even fall on the last move. There used to be a taped box to the left of the molecule to designate the finish, but it is now gone. So basically just go left hand somewhere to the left of the molecule. Here is the video http://vimeo.com/6333423 and a picture. Also as you can see in the video you are allowed to smear on the right wall, just be careful not to dab holds if you are swinging into the wall dynamically.

Right-Hand Mini Problem Sit

A great new steep crimping power testpiece, the low start adds a short three move V10 into the Right-Hand Mini problem which I think bumps the grade into solid V12. Big moves on nice small incuts. I am not sure which is a better climb, between the low and the high. The High just goes straight into business without a jug in the middle, but the low starts at the bottom of the wall and adds good moves. Here is the video:http://vimeo.com/6331638 and pictures

FA: James O'Connor
Other Ascents: Paul Robinson

It Has Begun!

Well I am pretty much finished with the layout and meat of the site, and have a small initial batch of problems now up, along with a ton of video(thanks Ellen!). A useful thing I just thought of is on the Problem Guide title I will keep a running number of how many problems are up on the site. So when you visit you can tell whether I have added any new problems or not since you visited last.

There are still many many classic climbs that are not up on the site yet, but in the coming weeks the number of problems will at least double I am sure. The V9 section of the site is particularly sparse but this is not from a lack of problems, I have loads of V9s. But I figure I might as well wait until I have video of them before putting them up. Just come into CATS Monday, Tuesday, Thursday or Friday and I will be there and can show you infinitely more problems.

Keen


The left wall Keen is actually the original. Rob at one point put up a bunch of jibs on the left wall and I made this line out of most of them. A very very crimpy perhaps easier CATS V12, requires a bit of pain tolerance and cool temps.
Here is video of the latest ascent
FA: Daniel or Paul?

Other Ascents: Seth Allred, James O'Connor, Matt Johnson

Epic

THE pinch testpiece of CATS. I set this for Daniel after he did Organic in about 30 min, this one was harder for him as it took him 45 min or so. An amazing line of ETCH pinches with scarce feet making for interesting footwork. If you think you are strong on pinches have at it. It is taped with Epic stickers and starts near the bottom right of the steep. It is a fairly obvious line of all ETCH pinches except the first hold. Here is the video of Paul:
http://vimeo.com/6977881
FA: Daniel Woods
Other Ascents: Paul Robinson

Crimp Warm-up


This is a good climb with small moves to warm up your fingers, it does however have a piss ton of holds and there is more than one way of doing it so the video here: http://vimeo.com/6291034 will help some and here is a picture as well, it ends on the plate over the lip.

Jug Warm-up




A good warm up that is harder than a ladder of jugs but does not require any fingers. There is actually a really pretty foot sequence that can be done in the upper but I totally forgot it in the video which is here:http://vimeo.com/6289242 and I will post pictures to help as well.

Old Power V8




This is a very very old problem I made up when I first moved out, perhaps the third problem overall that I set in CATS. A good mixture of power and tension on pinches and slopers makes this the Full Service of CATS V8. The original finish got moved slightly quite awhile back so the current one is somewhat half-assed. A good variation if this is not at your limit is to jump to the Egg at the end, but that could bump to V9. The video is here: http://vimeo.com/6288786 and I am giving a couple pictures as well.

The Classic Power Bloc

A solid V11 testpiece of power, although sadly a bit easier for those who are taller. Nonetheless not too many repeats. Remember not to match on the red pinch, in general in CATS you cannot match on holds unless they are clearly designed for matching. Video is here: http://vimeo.com/6288147 And one picture of the bottom, after the red pinch goes to chunky white edge, then purple Teknik edge, finish yellow sandstone.

New Team Effort V7

I very well set V7 by Silven, Philip and myself. This one has a great variety of movement and is much more interesting than the typical CATS climb. I have been hearing some complaining regarding the grade, well this is certainly much easier than the V8's and V9's I have been putting up so I guess I have to be consistent. I would be interested to hear though if you believe my new climbs to be generally harder for the grade than my old climbs, because then I guess I would have to adjust some, let me know. The video is here: http://vimeo.com/6273106
The video should be enough but I will run it through by words in case. Start Zbar jug, with a blue jib and a dirty yellow jib to start, left hand two screw teal crimp, into blue Teknik pinch, out to small green ETCH pinch, right foot on red jib just to the right of the big yellow loaf pinch, right hand to small tan/yellow pinch above the green font, right hand again to the pink eGrips scooped mini pinch, left hand Red Hornytoad.

Ellen's Climb

This is in fact the second climb my girlfriend Ellen ever set, and it turned out to be a very good climb. Cool holds, reasonable movement, good sustained difficulty, feet are a little odd to use though. But definitely fills a good niche in the V6 area. Video is here http://vimeo.com/6271360 and a picture of the bottom as well to be clear, after the last hold in the picture the video should work, but if not; black eGrips crimp, small blue sloper, three screw teal crimp rail, big yellow sandstone to finish.

Blue Tape



This was an excellent climb set by Peter Beal, and taped blue. A bit ago though me and Rob decided the gym was messy looking and took down a lot of tape this one included. I liked this climb though and continue to warm up on it, it should be remembered so here is the video of Ellen climbing it: http://vimeo.com/6271360 to help and a picture for the plethora of feet

Keen

This is the CATS Clear Blue Skies simulator. Original concept by Anson modified and re-set by Rob, Carlo, Alex and myself. First this problem was untaped, then it had Epic tape, then the Epic traverse was set and this was reset Keen. Which fits well with the other Keen climb which is simple, short, crimpy and maybe a touch sharp. Although I realize that saying this is harder than CBS does not make this V13, this is a decent amount harder and many who have done the climb cannot do the 2nd move at all on the CATS CBS, so I will give it entry level V13. No flash ascents by the way. . .
Video is here:http://vimeo.com/6269195

FA: Daniel Woods
Other Ascents: Paul Robinson, James O'Connor, Phil Schaal, Alex Puccio

Green Hornytoad

An epic masterpiece of movement and perfect holds. This is a taped climb that is very very hard for me to put a grade on, I did it awhile back without too much difficulty and Daniel flashed it but it has seen many many people who climb V13 and V14 fail on it so I guess I will go ahead and list it as a V13. If you send it and go "pshh that is V11" well good for you I do not really care.
Video is here: http://vimeo.com/6268642
Green Hornytoad is also one of my current campus projects all the moves have gone, and I have had decent link starting 2 moves in and falling on the last move. The future for sure.

If you can campus all the moves I will buy you 3 blocks of chalk.
If you campus Green Hornytoad and your last name is not Woods, then I will name a problem after you and will treat a meal at iHop.

FA: James O'Connor
Other Ascents: Daniel Woods, Gabor Szekely, Andre Defelice

Spider Man

There are 4 taped climbs in CATS that are taped with various Spider Man stickers, the are very easy and cannot be harder than V3 and the easiest is probably V1. They are not supposed to be climbed open feet you are supposed to just climb them with tracking. Some of them climb awkwardly because it is harder to set a problem with only 8 stickers. But they are good for the CATS neophyte or as warmups. I will post pictures to help with the location and lines.


New Mini Power Bloc

This is one of my most fun problems, big fun moves on decent holds, nothing really heinous to do just power around the wall. I was thinking this maybe was V11 as none of my friends could touch the moves, but I and a couple others flashed it(well I had to set it so it was not exactly flash, but I never fell on it) and Phil said I could not count it as CATS V11 if I were to do a points day so I guess it will get V10.
Video is here http://vimeo.com/6090442
And I will give a description as well: Start B3 with the green Orange Horny Toad jib, straight up to red ball, black ETCH pinch, big cross through to good White Fang pinch, White Smith sidepull, circular red two screw jib for feet, big move to the yellow ETCH sandstone.

Campus Number 2

This is Campus Number 2, a slightly odd one because it is a piece of a problem that had feet, lots of slopers and Boss mastery. Climbs more like an actual climb, with matching, needing to set up, missing, accuracy etc. A difficult one for me to repeat, but Paul said it is easier than 1 and 3 so I guess it will stick with V11.
Video here http://vimeo.com/6096423 should explain it well enough, if not let me know.

Campus Number 1

This is the first real campus problem I made up, although this is the full. The original just started high on the Lunar Flats. There are currently campus problems 1 through 5, plus a new sloper campus. They are numbered chronologically by when I set and sent them. Number one here is a nice friendly tension problem. I am not sure if it helps or is possible to quickly onetwo through the crux to the lip, but if it is, don't do it, stick the holds. In general onetwoing is not very acceptable. I think the video here http://vimeo.com/6089275 makes things clear enough, if not drop a comment.

Phil's Hard Climb

This is another problem set awhile back by my friend Phil London. A combination of sick holds, power, and a commiting finish make this a nice steep testpiece for those entering double digits in the steep.
Here is the video http://vimeo.com/6097043 sorry it is not shot super well, hard to keep everything in the frame.
Here is a picture showing the bottom which may be hard to make out in the video. After the two last holds shown; bubblewrap ledge, pink ETCH pinch, pink ETCH pinch, green E-grips left facing jug.


The Nemisis

This is a really good tension and power pinch and sloper problem. I originally put it up at V10 but it got a lot of attempts and no repeats until Paul sent after a few falls, so I guess it gets V11.
Here is the video: http://vimeo.com/6108036
Believe it or not the first two moves are what most people find difficult as peoples feet cut off the stingy jib. It starts on a purple ETCH Pinch and a jib crimp right below it, here is a picture of the start just to be clear



The Original Problem


A very old climb for the current CATS, this was the first climb I set in CATS when I moved out here and the walls were still being filled in from Nationals. If you want to start climbing on the steep this is a must do intro problem with crimps, tension and a touch of power.


The bottom is a little hard to see so here is a picture to help, after the last crimp in the picture the video should show it well enough; big move to finger bucket, come into undercut, up to three finger pocket dish thing, purple sidepull screw on, jug.

White Smith

This is a super classic taped traverse set by the owner Rob, that can be climbed open feet at about 5.12b, jibs only(no tracking) at 5.13a or I have campused it in two pieces, if that were to go it would be pushing 5.14d would be my guess but route grading is not my field. It is very smooth movement on finger buckets for a little over 30 moves, the end is easier but from the bottom it climbs with a perfect consistency. A perfect warm-up if you climb routes or have climbed in CATS for a little bit and know where it goes, as it warms up the muscles and body given the 30+ moves and the fingers because all the holds are crimps.
Video is here http://vimeo.com/6092584

The Bear Problem

This is a very simple, taped, CATS style climb set by my friend Philip London awhile back. Who strangely at the time had been to CATS maybe one other time. Very cimpy with tension and not very much pain. Has actually seen more flashes than redpoints as Daniel, Paul and Carlo flashed it and I did not.

Video of the climb is http://vimeo.com/6105050

Given that it is taped and there is a video I do not see much need for a description, just remember you do get a foot out right for the end.

The New Pinch Classic

This is a really good obvious line I saw after I put up some new holds. A variety of moves on pinches; compression, stabs, crosses it comes together pretty well. And tall people should not complain about the high foot near the end, it works perfectly fine for a friend of mine who is 6' 1"
The video for the problem is http://vimeo.com/6088053
Starts in good deep incut scoop, right foot on green Orange Horny Toad jib, left foot (which I do not start with, but some do) is directly left 8bolts on a strange right facing edge. The rest should be fairly obvious from the video. Green ETCH, Yellow ETCH, little black, big white, green font ETCH, Epic 50cent edge, Jug.

Old Compression Bloc

This is an old very fun problem, and although it has slopers and pinches it climbs very differently than something you would find at the Spot. Better to be taller on this one, but don't dab the first move. Video of the climb is here http://vimeo.com/6108853
Starts left hand fat pinch right hand Hudz plate, right foot straight down on a red jib on the kickboard. Jump into the fat Teknik pinch, left hand to red Teknik pinch, right hand red Pusher sloper, left hand strange brown seam crimp, right hand old school E-Grips jug pinch, jug.

Bubble Wrap Dyno

This is a relatively old problem, not too hard for the grade and friendly holds. So definitely a problem to do if you can. There is video for this problem(http://vimeo.com/6095549) but I will describe some of the beta anyway, especially as the feet can be hard to see. You start on the two obvious slopey jugs with a red jib on the kickboard out right, easy reach up move to a rounded incut crimp, bring left foot up to a green Orange Horny Toad taped jib and do a slightly harder reach move to a small vertical rock pinch, feet in starter, and do a tensiony reach up to the bubble wrap. Right foot on the first crimp and Moon kick up to the Spider Man taped jug.

Up and Running Soon!

I think I have figured out how to get the blog to run the way I want it to. I now need to takes lots and lots of pictures and spend some time in MS paint but in the next couple weeks I will hopefully get a lot of problems up onto the site. I already have almost a dozen videos up of some CATS classics on my Vimeo, so be sure to check that out for now! And let me know if you have any suggestions, be gentle. . .

About CATS

CATS(Colorado Athletic Training School) is a 10,000+ square foot training facility primarily devoted to gymnastics and climbing.

CATS is located at:
2400 30th Street
Boulder, CO 80301

and can be reached at 303-939-9699

For becoming a stronger, better rockclimber there is simply no better gym. CATS does not coddle with too many jugs, big feet, dihedrals or silly climbing. Especially with a crew of friends, CATS is very fun as well compared to traditional gyms where you have to deal with crowds and poor setting. CATS is whatever you want it to be, you can spend all day doing 30+ move traverses, crush out 3 move power problems on the smallest crimps you have ever seen, or climb out the absolute pinnacle of training; the CATS steep wall.

Not only is CATS the best place to train, but it is the cheapest.

$5 for a day pass, which after 8pm gives you full access to the rest of the facility which includes bars, rings etc.

$45 for a 10 pass punch card

$30 for a month pass

$290 for a one year membership